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Considering that the Brancas are novice restaurateurs, they have done a good job of presenting a unique concept with a casual style well-suited to this street food culture.It sometimes feels a little disjointed as a complete dining experience.

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I've reviewed a wonderfully diverse collection of restaurants this year that specialize in grilled meat on sticks.

Each has been remarkably distinct, from the oniony Afghan marinades of Sansom Kabob House to the yakitori glazed meats and smoke-scented heat of the robatayaki at Double Knot.

But that would shortchange several other exceptional dishes on this concise but vivid homage to unique Malay flavors.

Several come in distinctive stuffed with coconut rice, crispy anchovies, and a hard-boiled egg is practically considered Malaysia's national dish, says John, a Wynnewood native who's been to Southeast Asia many times since he met and married Ange.

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But definitely do go for the goat, which has a buttery richness and gamy savor similar to lamb.

And just so vegetarians don't feel neglected by my carnivorous enthusiasm, the tofu skewers were also exceptional, with crackly crusts and tender centers that had fully absorbed the marinade's flavor.

That sauce speaks to the Malay culture that accounts for half of Malaysia's population.

You can choose your protein, and common options such as chicken and beef are perfectly delicious.

'I don't want anyone else to risk it,' his mother Grace said.